A Jeweller’s Guide to Amethyst: Identification, Setting and Cleaning Tips

March 7, 2025

Step into the enchanting world of amethyst, a gemstone so steeped in history and beauty, it’s practically royalty. With its luscious purple tones and dazzling clarity, amethyst has been capturing the hearts of jewellers and collectors for centuries (mine included).

Whether you’re designing a classic pendant or a bold cocktail ring, this versatile gem is ready to shine. In this guide, we’ll delve into everything you need to know about amethyst, from its defining characteristics and care requirements to setting considerations and quirky trivia.

Ready to be spellbound? Let’s get started!

Basic Identification Information

Name & Synonyms
Amethyst; sometimes nicknamed the "sobriety stone."

Species
Quartz

Colour Range
Light lavender to deep purple, often with reddish or bluish secondary hues.

Refractive Index
1.544–1.553

Birefringence
0.009

Optical Sign
Uniaxial+

Specific Gravity
2.650-2.655

Fluorescence
None or Weak purple to bluish-white (under longwave UV light).

Lustre
Vitreous (a radiant, glass-like gleam).

Clarity
Type 2
Usually eye-clean, but inclusions like "zebra stripes" or colour zoning can appear in some stones.

Gems often mistaken for amethyst
Charoite, Fluorite, Sapphire, Scapolite, Spinel, Topaz, Tourmaline.

Mohs Hardness
7

Wearability
Good for everyday wear, but watch for scratches on exposed areas.

Birthstone
February

Common Treatments

Amethyst isn't always treated, but it is quiet common to heat lighter stones to either deepen their purple tones or to change their colour to either yellow or green.

Durability Considerations

Amethyst is a hardy gem that is resistant to most daily wear, however a knock against a hard surface can cause chips or scratches, especially along sharp edges.

Prolonged exposure to UV light can cause an amethysts colour to fade, while it would need a lot of time in the sun for this to happen, it's still best to suggest customers remove their amethyst jewellery before sunbathing or using a tanning bed.

Jeweller's Setting Tips

Amethyst works beautifully in nearly any design, and while it's great for everyday wear, it’s not invincible. Opt for protective settings like bezels or recessed prongs to keep your gem safe and secure.

Casting amethyst in place? Proceed with caution as this gem isn’t fond of extreme heat.

Care Instructions

Amethyst is low-maintenance, which is always great for both jewellers and those that wear jewellery.

Stick to warm water, gentle soap, and a soft brush for cleaning.

Ultrasonic cleaners are generally fine, but do be careful with included gemstones. As for steamers, they’re a bit too intense for this purple beauty.

Aesthetic & Design Insights

Amethyst is the ultimate statement-maker, coming in a good range of sizes, including some really large cut stones.

Its bold purple hues pair perfectly with yellow gold for a regal vibe or silver for a more modern look.

Want to dial up the drama? Surround it with diamonds or white sapphires for a dazzling effect. If you’re after a whimsical touch, combine amethyst with contrasting gems like citrine or peridot.

For everyday rings, consider using cabochons or lower-profile settings to minimise potential wear.

Market & Ethical Notes

Amethyst’s value depends on its colour intensity, with deep, vibrant purples fetching higher prices. Look out for pieces with no zoning or obvious inclusions, as these are often considered more desirable.

Luckily, amethyst is one of the most accessible and ethically sourced gemstones, with many mines in Brazil and Africa adhering to sustainable practices.

Metaphysical Properties

Amethyst has long been associated with peace, clarity, and protection. Many believe it helps quiet the mind and spark creative inspiration, making it a favourite for artists, dreamers, and those that want a little extra help with their meditation practices.

Known as the "sobriety stone," it’s said to ward off overindulgence (though I can’t promise it’ll save you from that second glass of wine).