Sustainable jewellery making - Why Reclaimed Gems are the Future

Sustainability is no longer just a buzzword (and to be fair it never should have been), it’s a way of life for an increasing number of people who want their purchases to “not cost the earth.” But let’s be honest: there’s only so much an individual can do. Real change has to come from businesses, and even as a small business, you can still make a difference.

Making sustainable choices in jewellery design might seem like uncharted territory, but there are some areas where small and easy changes can make a huge difference. These efforts aren’t just better for the planet, they also make it easier for eco-conscious customers to choose your creations with confidence, expanding your customer base and even giving you some easy marketing topics, win win 😁. So, let’s dive into the ways we can go greener within the jewellery world, with a special spotlight on gemstones (because who doesn’t love some sparkle?).

 Metal

Let’s start with the foundations of every piece: the metal. Using recycled metals is one of the simplest ways to bring sustainability into your designs. But, depending on what you work with, it’s not always straightforward. Some metals can’t be endlessly recycled, so fresh material occasionally needs to be added to the mix.

If recycled metal isn’t an option, consider Fairtrade or Fairmined alternatives. These not only ensure ethical practices but also directly support the communities involved in mining. Choosing these metals isn’t just a tick on the sustainability checklist, it’s a meaningful step towards better industry practices globally.

Packaging

Eco-friendly packaging is another area where small swaps can make a big impact. Switching to FSC-certified or recycled cardboard gift boxes with eco-conscious foam inserts is an easy win. I personally use Westpac (not an affiliate link) for my own jewellery creations because their packaging options are fantastic, and you can opt for their foam inserts that are made from a by-product of the paper-making industry. A clever way to use something that might otherwise go to waste while also cutting back on fossil based oil usage.

Your postal packaging can get an upgrade, too. Recycled, plastic-free padded envelopes or sturdy cardboard box mailers are excellent choices. Not only do these options reduce environmental impact, but they also send a strong message to customers that you’re serious about your commitment to sustainability. After all, what’s the point in buying something that’s meant to be sustainable when it gets delivered wrapped up in plastic 🤦‍♀️

Manufacturing and Waste

Ok these ones are a little tricker but there might still be some tweaks you could make.

Jewellery-making inevitably creates waste, it’s just the nature of the craft. Whilst I’m sure you already have an eye on waste (let’s face it gold and silver is expensive!), that doesn’t mean we can’t do better. Offcuts and scraps, for example, could be melted down (the molten textured look is quite popular at the moment), or used in contemporary abstract designs.

Not only does this reduce waste, but it also encourages creativity. And let’s be honest, there’s something deeply satisfying about turning what would have been discarded into something beautiful and valuable.

Then there’s the making process itself. Rethink your production processes and consider whether you can use more planet-friendly techniques or tools. Would a hand tool work just as well as that powered tool?

And finally the Gemstones

Gemstones, the literal sparkle in the crown of jewellery making (and my main interest). Let’s focus in on how reclaimed and pre-owned gems can change the game for sustainable jewellery.

What exactly are reclaimed gemstones? They’re stones that have already lived a life, often set in older jewellery that’s been scrapped for its metal. These gems, unless they’re diamonds, are usually seen as valueless by the cash-for-gold industry and are often discarded. Imagine that—a perfectly good gemstone ending up in landfill!

This is where I (and some other gemologists like me) step in. I rescue these treasures, give them a thorough clean, identify them, and prepare them for their next chapter. My focus is on coloured gemstones, as diamonds are a different beast entirely. Diamonds often come from large-scale mines, have their own ethical concerns, and are more likely to be tested and valued during the scrapping process, so they don’t often end up as “forgotten gems.”

But why are reclaimed gems such a win for sustainability? Let’s compare their journey to that of a newly mined gemstones.

Mining new gemstones, even those from small-scale or artisanal miners, comes with significant environmental costs. Digging disrupts local wildlife and ecosystems, and the tools and machinery tends to be  powered by fossil fuels. Then, you’ve got the fuel burned transporting the stone from mine to cutter, supplier, and eventually to jeweller—steps that often span countries, if not continents, racking up a hefty carbon footprint.

Reclaimed gemstones skip most of these steps. Their path is much simpler: metal scrapper → gemmologist → jeweller. No mining, minimal cross-continental journeys (usually none, but occasionally I do source my gemstone from overseas as the UK isn’t the only country that scraps jewellery). The result? A dramatically reduced environmental impact.

The Challenges of Reclaimed Gems

Of course, reclaimed gems aren’t without their complexities. They can sometimes be more expensive because you’re paying for a gemmologist to carefully inspect and prepare each stone.

There’s also the ethical consideration of bypassing traditional supply chains. By using reclaimed gems, we’re cutting out miners, cutters, and suppliers who rely on the income from new gemstone sales. This can have economic ripple effects on communities that depend on the gemstone trade.

No choice is ever entirely black and white. It’s a balancing act, reducing environmental impact while being mindful of the social implications.

Why It’s Worth It

For jewellers creating one-of-a-kind designs with an environmental conscience, reclaimed gemstones are an incredible option. They offer a way to reduce your environmental footprint while crafting pieces that are truly unique.

Every step we take towards sustainability matters. By incorporating reclaimed gemstones into your designs, you’re not just creating jewellery—you’re creating change. And that, in my opinion, is the kind of sparkle the world needs right now 💖